Lockouts · Barrie
Broken Key Extraction
The padlock on the shed has been stiff all summer.
In plain words
Keys break for a reason, and finding that reason is half the visit. A brass key wears thinnest at its deepest cut, and after years of turning it fatigues there until a cold morning or a stiff bolt finishes it. Sometimes the lock is the culprit: grit in the keyway, a loose cap, worn pins, or a door that has dropped so the bolt binds and the key takes the strain. The extraction removes the piece; the inspection that follows tells you whether the lock needs a clean and lubricant, an adjustment, or a new cylinder, so it does not happen again next month.
How the visit goesThe apartment key snapped mid-turn, leaving the cylinder twisted halfway between locked and open. The building manager's spare is somewhere across town and nobody else has a copy. You are on the wrong side of the door.
Broken Key Extraction
How the visit goes
The half in your hand
The bow and stub you are holding are worth a look before anything else. The cuts on it identify the key blank and give most of the bitting, so a replacement can be read straight from it and the fragment once they are side by side. Its condition tells a story too: thinning at the cuts, a slight bend, a crack line or a shiny worn tip all say the key was near the end of its life. The locksmith also asks about spares. A crisp spare, or the key code tag that came with the lock, is a better pattern for the new key than any worn copy.
Cutting the key you leave with
Once the lock is clear, a replacement key is made. The two halves of the broken key are laid together and the cuts are read with a key gauge, or the locksmith cuts from the key code if you have the tag or the lock's records, or from a crisp spare. What is avoided is copying a worn original, because a duplicate inherits every rounded cut and will stick and wear the same way. The new key is cut on a code machine, tried in the lock with the door open, then closed, and from both sides. Extra copies are cut from the new key while the machine is set.
Habits for the freezing months
A winter break leaves you with a dried, lubricated cylinder and one rule: when the key stops partway, you stop too. Carry a small lock de-icer in a coat pocket or the glovebox; a few seconds of it, or the warmth of a cupped hand on the cylinder, frees a frozen plug without asking anything of the blade. Shut the storm door before freezing rain, and fit a keyhole cover on a side door that catches meltwater during a thaw. Ice is one of the winter causes the locksmith sees often, alongside worn keys, misalignment and dirty or worn cylinders, and it is one of the easiest to prevent.
Broken Key Extraction
In the van
Key blanks and code cutter
Tension tool for resetting the plug
Spiral key extractors
Vehicle key blades and chip shells
Key gauge and decoder
Broken Key Extraction
What affects the quote
Condition of the cylinder
Worn pins, a loose cap, grit or corrosion found after the piece is out may call for a service, a rekey or a new cylinder, each explained and quoted separately.
Where the key broke
A house deadbolt, a knob, an older mortise case, a padlock, a car door and a vehicle ignition each call for different access and different care, and the quote follows the hardware.
Weather on the day
A cylinder that is frozen or iced has to be thawed and dried before extraction can begin, so a call during a deep freeze carries that patient extra time.
What to have ready
- Do you have a spare key that works, or the key code tag from the lock?
- Is any part of the key still visible above the face of the lock?
- Has anything been put into the keyway since, such as tweezers, glue or another key?
Broken Key Extraction: questions
QuestionsWhat proof do I need to show?
Photo identification and something that connects you to the lock. For a house or apartment that is a lease, a bill, addressed post, or confirmation from the property manager; for a business, your role there; for a vehicle, the registration or ownership papers with matching identification. If the documents are inside, say so on the phone and the check is completed once the door is open.
What information helps when I call?
What the key was in: a front door deadbolt, a knob, a padlock, the driver's door or the ignition. Whether any of the key shows above the face. Whether the key turned before it broke and whether the door is locked now. Whether anything has been inserted since. Whether you have the other half, a spare or the key code. And whether the property is owned, rented or managed.
Should I rekey or replace the lock afterwards?
Only if the inspection finds a reason. A clean cylinder with sound pins goes straight back to work with a new key. Rekeying makes sense when the pins are worn and sticking, or when a lost or unaccounted key shares the same cut. Replacement is for a cylinder that is corroded, cracked or of a grade that will keep eating keys. Each is offered as its own decision, not bundled in.
Related services
- Business Lockout ServiceYou signed the lease on the unit last week and the landlord handed over possession, but the previous tenant's locks are still on both doors and no keys came with them.
- Break-In Damage Lock RepairThere is a hole where the cylinder used to be.
- Seized & Jammed Lock OpeningYou are inside, the deadbolt is thrown, and the thumb-turn will not budge.