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Person holding a long door handle and rectangular lock case beside an open wooden door with exposed hardware recesses. — Vintage Mortise Lock Service, Cundles
A silver-colored deadbolt set in clear packaging with two keys resting on the countertop in front. — Lock Rekeying, Cundles

Change or rekey · Cundles

Vintage Mortise Lock Service in Cundles

The key turns freely in the round cylinder on the door, all the way around and back, without the bolt shifting at all.

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In plain words

Where the door has moved, the lock gets blamed. Solid wood doors in older houses swell in humid weather, shrink in winter and settle on their hinges, and a mortise lock that was set decades ago ends up with its latch and bolt aiming a little below the strike. Part of every vintage lock service is reading how the door hangs, tightening or packing the hinges, and moving or filing the strike so the latch catches and the bolt throws without lifting the handle. Often that alignment work, plus a clean and new springs, is the entire repair, and the customer gets back a door that closes with one hand.

Sound familiar?

You bought a house with its original hardware and a bag of loose keys. Some open interior doors, some fit nothing, and the front door lock has a keyhole shaped for a key you do not have. You would like the original lock kept and made to work.

How the visit goes

Vintage Mortise Lock Service

How the visit goes

Illustrative locksmith scene — Cundles
Illustrative locksmith scene — Cundles
  1. Which keys exist and who has them

    The locksmith asks to see every key that goes with the door: the one that works, the ones that used to, and the bag of loose bit keys that came with the house. A worn original is still the most useful pattern for a new key, and a bent one explains why the lock has become temperamental. For a cylinder lock, a lost or stolen key is a reason to rekey while the case is out, and a key that only a former occupant holds is worth retiring. The count of keys wanted afterwards is settled now too, so the spares are cut while the lock is on the bench rather than on a return visit.

  2. When a case is fitted new

    If the old case could not be saved, the replacement is fitted to the door rather than the door to the replacement. A reproduction or modern mortise case matching the measured height, depth, backset, faceplate and hub is chosen with the goal of it dropping into the existing pocket; where a small difference remains, the pocket is trimmed with a chisel by the least amount that works, never bored out. The original knobs, escutcheons and strike are refitted wherever their spacing allows, and a new cylinder is keyed to match the rest of the house if wanted. The result reads as the original lock from either side of the door, with the reliability of a fresh mechanism.

  3. How to lubricate it, and how not to

    A serviced mortise case wants very little. Once a year, a single drop of light lock oil into the latch and the bolt from the door edge, with the faceplate screws briefly backed off if needed, keeps the levers gliding. If the lock has a pin-tumbler cylinder, that cylinder gets dry graphite or a PTFE lubricant in the keyway instead, because oil in a cylinder gathers grit and stiffens the pins. General-purpose spray lubricants belong nowhere on this hardware; they flush out the little oil that should stay and leave a film that dust settles into. The locksmith will show you where the drop goes so you are not guessing.

Vintage Mortise Lock Service

In the van

  • Light lock oil

  • Warding files

  • Mortise cylinder and cam

  • Latch and hub springs

  • Deadbolt lever springs

Illustrative locksmith scene — Cundles

Vintage Mortise Lock Service

What affects the quote

  1. Strike and hinge work

    Where the door has dropped or swelled, adjusting or moving the strike and tightening or packing hinges is part of the fix. It is small work but it is listed, so you see what was done to the door.

  2. Extras you choose on the day

    A high-security cylinder, a lockbox for a spare bit key or a separate modern deadbolt above the original are optional additions. None is required to make the old lock work, and each is priced as its own line.

  3. Paint and seized parts

    Hardware buried under decades of paint takes time to free and clean without damage. A faceplate, strike and thumb-turn that have to be stripped back add to the visit and are noted in the quote.

What to have ready

  • Does the door take a skeleton-style bit key or a flat key in a round cylinder?
  • What does the knob do when you turn it: return, sag, or not come back?
  • Does the deadbolt throw fully with the key or the thumb-turn?
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Vintage Mortise Lock Service: questions

Questions
Will the door look any different afterwards?

Usually not, when the original case is repaired: the same knobs, escutcheons, faceplate and strike go back on in the same positions, and the only visible change is paint or grime cleared from the edges that were catching. A replacement case is chosen to match the pocket so original trim is reused wherever spacing allows, though an occasional case needs a small pocket or fixing change, explained beforehand.

What information helps before you come out?

Whether the door takes a skeleton-style bit key or a flat key in a round cylinder, roughly when the house was built, what the knob and bolt are doing, and whether the trouble is worse with the door closed. A photo of the faceplate in the door edge and one of the keyhole side is worth a great deal. Mention how many doors are involved and how many keys you would like afterwards.

Is it worth repairing an old mortise lock instead of replacing it?

Usually, yes. The mechanisms are simple and robust, and what fails is nearly always a spring, dried grease or wear on one part, all of which are repairable on a bench. Replacing the lock with a modern cylindrical set means boring a large hole through the door stile and filling the old pocket, which is more work and changes the door for good. A rebuilt case keeps the original trim and keeps the door intact.

Related services

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